Creation of a bespoke suit
During the initial conversation, I will have ample time to discuss your particular style, select the fabrics and take all your body’s unique measurements.
Subsequently, I will cut an individual personal paper pattern, taking into consideration your body’s specifications, your wishes we have discussed and the rules of the Golden Ratio. Each individual paper pattern is unique and will be stored for documentation purposes, so it can be used again for any future orders.
Next step is cutting the cloth by hand, considering pattern/grains, warp and weft, leaving extra cloth at certain seams, allowing for the suit to be altered at a later date (weight fluctuations, fashion changes etc.).
"There hardly can be a greater difference than between any two people."
Honoré de Balzac
Preparation of the first fitting
The separate parts are being marked by white basting thread, ironed into shape and then temporarily stitched together for the basted fitting.
For the forepart of the jacket, a supporting substructure will be created, built up of several layers. The lining, consisting of wool fibre, linen and horsetail hair, will ensure that during its complete lifecycle, the jacket will conform to your body’s shape. No fused or glued inner linings will ever be used. Because of the flexible construction of the inner lining, the jacket will retain its model and shape.
The first fitting resembles a building’s frame: it serves as a check on the shape and model. A range of details of the model will be discussed and amended if needed.
Implementation of the model
After the basted fitting any alterations will be noted and applied. The pockets will be attached, the chest piece is being styled. Subsequently, the interlining will be incorporated. Collar and arms will be attached.
"The most essential impact of elegance is: hiding the effort it requires."
Honoré de Balzac
The second fitting equals an intermediate fitting. The main body has already been finished. The shoulders, collar and sleeves will be checked over for form, position and length.
After the second fitting the suit will be completed. The shoulder construction will be finalized, the sleeves will be inserted, the buttonholes will be handmade using a silk thread.
The finished suit
At the third and final fitting, the garment is ready. During this final fitting there are rarely any adjustments to be made.